OLD SCHOOL TECH SESSION
Pierre Hedary with Bill Walsh

Sorting Out a Modern Classic
1983 300TD Station Wagon
 
At some point, at least half of all Mercedes aficionados will consider purchasing an example built between, say, 1970 and 1990 – the category that Mercedes-Benz calls the “young-timers” and we might call a “modern classic.” The attraction is simple: The lines are classic, the car is sensible and, with a little common sense, the price can be affordable on almost any budget.

Why buy a modern classic?

As Bill Walsh of the Mile-High Section recently wrote, “The nice thing about the more recent models is that they can be enjoyed on multiple levels. You can appreciate their timeless classic lines, the intrinsic engineering quality that transmits to the driver, and the wide range of utility still offered from these solid cars. But more than that, I’ve found that these models can be refreshed or renewed for everyday use and you won’t have to make any compromises relative to newer cars.”

Walsh further explained: “This is true because of two factors that I believe are particular only to the Mercedes brand. First, the original build quality of a classic Mercedes was matched by few other cars. These cars are engineered to last almost indefinitely provided that scheduled maintenance is followed and parts engineered to wear are replaced before they damage parts not engineered to wear. Second, the Mercedes factory supports its modern classics with a very comprehensive supply of parts built to the original specifications or to specifications that exceed the originals. What other manufacturer does that?”

I mention Walsh because I’ve worked with him on all three of the modern classics he owns, a 1972 280SE 4.5, a 1991 350SD and his most recent acquisition, a 1983 300TD station wagon. This is the car that he recently drove more than 2,700 miles from Vail, Colorado, to Phoenix, Arizona, for StarFest® – then to Los Angeles, up the coast to San Francisco, and back to Vail – as illustrated on pages 50-52.

If you’re thinking about adding a modern classic to your stable,  buy the best example you can find – in running condition, with a solid body and good interior. Then, take a systematic approach to reconditioning –  “sorting out” the car – to be sure that you haven’t left anything undone that needs to be done or might need to be done in the near future. Third, be careful and thorough in your work, use good quality original spec parts and work with an experienced mechanic if you’ve got any doubt about your own abilities.

Buy the best car you can find

When buying the car, keep in mind that there are lots of examples of these older cars around, so you never have to settle for one that needs extensive work. They aren’t very expensive to buy, which also means that there isn’t much, if any, profit to be made should you have to sell the car.

Once you’ve got an idea of the model and body style you’re interested in buying, my best advice is to look within the MBCA. A car that has been owned by a club member is much more likely to have been carefully maintained than one with an uncertain ownership history.

Additionally, look for one with service records that are as complete as possible. This is the best indication of careful maintenance that you can have. When you do find one with service information, it’s better if the car underwent routine maintenance and parts replacement throughout its life rather than having a lot of money thrown at it in the recent past. There are many owners who will advertise how much money they’ve recently spent on the car, but all that means is that the work may have been done hurriedly or extensive work was needed – and there’s probably a good but not so obvious reason why the project was abandoned and the seller is willing to take a loss on investment.

We’ve included a comprehensive checklist with this article that can be used to outline the work plan on a car once it has been purchased. The list can also aid a buyer when inspecting a car to purchase. The only difference is that you’re going to reverse the order of importance. Rather than first inspecting systems such as the brakes and suspension as you’d do when you begin to sort out the car after purchase, you’ll be looking at the potential black holes of restoration projections.

In your prepurchase inspection, look carefully at the body and interior. Slight rust can be attended to, but make sure there’s room in your budget and adjust your offering price accordingly. Bodywork entails removal of paint to determine the extent of the problem, then cutting, welding, and replacing panels, probably the most expensive labor in the restoration process. Similarly, reconditioning the upholstery, cushions and springs may be necessary, but if a number of trim pieces are missing, or the car will need complete reupholstering to be usable, perhaps this isn’t the car for you. But don’t despair; just keep searching for a better example. 

However, you may not be able to do a complete inspection – a cream puff in the exact model and colors you were dreaming of won’t stay on the market long and the owner may not be willing to allow you to take the car long enough for a thorough mechanical checkup. If that’s the case, be thorough in your visual inspection, make sure the car starts relatively easily, and then makes its way down the road in a reasonable fashion. If the owner is an enthusiast, and/or the service records are complete, and the price is reasonable, you’ll probably be fine.

When Walsh decided he needed a station wagon to go with his other two modern classics – a car that could handle weekend chores, carry his dog, function in a winter mountain climate, and be safe, reliable, and comfortable for long trips – he looked first within the MBCA community for possibilities. But when he found this wagon, it was on the West Coast, so he couldn’t perform a visual inspection. However, it was owned by a still-active past president of an MBCA section, and the extensive and detailed pictures looked good.

Despite the wagon’s 195,000 miles, the owner promised that it was well maintained, always stored indoors, never rusted, never in an accident, and cosmetically near perfect; the detailed pictures were consistent with the statements. Moreover, it had the cargo cover option, the often-lost luggage rack crossbars, tool and first-aid kits, and came with the Euro headlights that Walsh liked. In addition, it had been owned in California and Arizona, and had all service records right back to delivery documents and window sticker. With this background, he purchased it and had it shipped to his home in Colorado.

The engine compartment of Bill Walsh's car after all the work was done (including a LOT of cleaning.

Take a systematic approach

However, a fundamental part of my creed is that there is no such thing as a vintage Mercedes that doesn’t need something. Because the previous owner states that he has spent significant money on the car in the recent past, many buyers will presume that the car will be perfect. This is almost always not so. Most people who own these cars do not drive them enough, understand them sufficiently, and acquaint themselves completely with their proper functions. As a result, when someone purchases one of these cars that is promised to be “fully sorted, needing nothing,” the buyer is often disappointed.

Our plan was that I would help Walsh recondition this car, making two of my flying onsite service visits. On the first visit, we would perform the basics and conduct a thorough inventory to develop a needed parts list and a detailed work plan. As I always do with any new purchase of an unfamiliar car, the initial visit involves making sure the car is safe to drive. This means that the brakes, steering, suspension and tires need assessment. It also means changing all the fluids, adjusting the valves, and making sure that the important items – structure of the car, its engine and gearbox, and driveline – are all solid.

As Walsh had hoped from his due-diligence efforts before buying the car, it was cosmetically excellent. But when we got it out on the road, we discovered that it did not drive like a Mercedes-Benz should. The front suspension was indifferent, the automatic rear hydraulic leveling system was ineffective, the climate control was unpredictable, and the normal virtues of a turbodiesel – power, fuel economy and smooth operation – were absent. There was much more work to do, though there didn’t seem to be any unpleasant surprises lurking in the car.
So, what to do next? The answer – as it always is – was to take a systematic approach to the reconditioning. We began by planning the replacement of all “wear items” that weren’t obviously replaced recently.

A wear item is a part designed by the factory to absorb the punishment of use, and then eventually wear out. These items include, but are not limited to, rubber suspension parts, brake pads, cooling hoses, belts, climate-control actuators, water pumps, and other parts that are made of soft compounds or have wear surfaces. What I often find, however, is that these parts are not replaced until they fail and – more often than not – are replaced with substandard equipment and indifferently installed and adjusted. After all, the previous owner might have reasoned that it’s just an old car; why spend any more money on it than necessary to keep it running? What is rewarding, however, is how well a car will respond to the replacement of these wear items.

Make a list and check it twice

After finishing the basic work to ensure the car was safe to take on a test drive, Walsh and I went to work with our checklist; system by system, we went through the car. We didn’t do any immediate work or disassemble anything unnecessarily, but simply made a list of parts that would need replacement and work the wagon needed. As we inspected, we also methodically checked the previous owner’s invoices to confirm what we were seeing on the car.

When inspecting a recently purchased car, I don’t replace things only on an as-needed basis. Instead, I replace what I find to be worn and replace its duplicate (such as the right and left tie rods), even if the duplicate is fairly new. Uniformity is key to a good and safe driving experience.

In selecting replacement parts, I always use reputable brands. Money invested in genuine Mercedes parts is always a good idea, as they perform better and last longer than many of the off-brands. The good thing, of course, is that once Mercedes has declared a particular model to be a classic – usually a decision made when the model has been out of production for 25 years – the company makes every effort to keep replacement parts in stock, available for purchase through Mercedes dealers. Walsh has had excellent experience ordering from Mercedes-Benz of Monterey  as well as directly from the Mercedes-Benz Classic Center.

When I do this work, I am as methodical as possible with the checklist. For example, under the suspension category, I list every part in the front end and whether it was recently replaced, is an original and is worn, or in good condition. Although we found some new parts in the system of Walsh’s 300TD, so many old parts in bad condition kept popping up that we decided it would be most effective to rebuild the entire front suspension assembly.

On a more complicated level, items such as the fuel injection system, which can’t be physically inspected for a malfunction, should also be assessed using indirect symptoms to check for correct operation. A good place to start with a fuel injection system, for example, is by looking for leaks from old hoses or incorrect hose clamps while the car is running. It is also good to run some basic tests, such as checking fuel pump delivery and fuel pressure, checking the tank for rust and visually inspecting the wiring harness. Once you have dealt with these, you can make a list of odd behaviors that the car displays and talk to an MBCA tech expert who is familiar with the older systems. In the accompanying box on this page is the list we prepared for the front suspension parts.

Preparing a small table like this for each system on the car can help you track what might fail and what measures need to be taken to rectify it. The list can then become a checklist to order parts, crossing them off when they’ve been handled. This doesn’t mean that all of the parts that are original or have been replaced with aftermarket parts will need replacing. For example, rear control arm bushings never really wear out until reaching high mileages (500K or more).

On the other hand, electrical components, such as ignition system parts on a gasoline-engine car (coils, condensers, points, rotors, resistors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and so forth.) should all be assessed; if the components haven’t been replaced since new, you should replace everything that carries a significant current – and new, original-spec sets of spark plug wires also make the engine look good – so that you don’t have issues later.

This is where the services of an experienced mechanic are most desirable, since he or she will know what lasts, and what can fail without warning. It’s worth noting that if an owner has good mechanical awareness and skills, he or she will learn about the car as he work progresses. Even if the owner doesn’t replace a part that should have been replaced, he or she still will know how to access the part if it does fail later.

These are all the "wear" and unacceptable parts that were replaced on Bill Walsh's car

The cost of sorting out a car

Sorting out many classic cars that are up to the Mercedes build and performance standards, such as Ferraris, Jaguars, and Porsches, can be very expensive. In contrast, without a huge investment, Mercedes cars offer unusually high reliability and comfort for an older car that can be used every day. Investing $5,000 or $10,000 to sort out a vintage Mercedes to make it a reliable driver is much cheaper than buying and sorting out, say, a BMW Bavaria or Jaguar XJ6. Once you get the Mercedes right, it usually stays right.

Perusing his records, Walsh reported: “We replaced every suspension wear part, installed a remanufactured steering box, new rear axles and axle bearings, plus glow plugs, a viscous fan and blade, and a new oil cooler. Many other age-failure parts were replaced. We also installed all-new door-lock actuators, though most worked just fine, a rebuilt Beckmann cruise amplifier and climate-control pushbutton unit, vent actuators, replaced the windshield seal and trim with a new M-B seal and anodized trim. In addition, there was a long list of items large and small to make the car look, feel and operate renewed.

“We relentlessly chased fluid leaks and seepage, replacing every hose, gasket and resealing anything needed. Pierre didn’t quit until everything in the engine bay, under the car and in the interior was functioning to as-new standard. The car is also now bone dry underneath, front to back – like a brand new car.”

But Walsh had every intention of using this car on an everyday basis under seasonally challenged driving conditions in, frankly, an upscale community, so he went just a bit further than absolutely necessary.

“In addition to the reconditioning costs,” Wash continued, “I personalized a few things for the 300TD’s year-round everyday use. For three-season use, I fitted 240D aluminum rims and body-color hubcaps with larger-sized 205/70/14 Michelin Defenders. Because I live in serious ski country, I have four studded Nokian Hakkapeliitta snow tires mounted on bundt wheels that I put on as soon as the snow flies.

“Becker Autosound upgraded the Grand Prix radio with a module for a hardwired Sirius Radio. Carpet is protected by jaspe-colored Palm-Fiber Coco Mats and a thick laser-cut Lloyd’s tan rubber mat protects the cargo area for everyday hauling activities. I also had MB-Tex vinyl fashioned into slipcovers to protect the original leather rear seat bottoms from my ever-present 70-pound dog Jack, and twelve inches of 3M Clear Bra was applied across the hood and front fenders to protect from stone chips.

“In setting my reconditioning and personal upgrade budget, I had an eye toward market value but was not completely restricted by it. The all-in cost is amortized by my anticipation that this classic will give me everything I need in a local- and long-distance wagon in great condition for at least another 200,000 miles with regular maintenance.”

The results are impressive. The total costs that Walsh reported at the end of the project are comparable with a new American compact car, but the rewards are much more complex because the resulting car will be both a transportation utility and a piece of physical history.

Another positive financial factor is that the car isn’t likely to depreciate at the rate that a new car would. Moreover, it is much more environmentally correct to keep an old car on the road than to scrap it to buy a new one. If you are diligent in sorting your car out, working with competent individuals and using high-quality components, then you will end up with the vintage Mercedes of your dreams.

 
Front suspension, 1983 300TD station wagon

RECONDITIONING
Check List of Systems and Components

Check condition, and function, if appropriate, of components of each system

Brakes

• Calipers; brake pads and rotors; master cylinder function; brake booster function; brake hoses; parking brake condition and function.

Suspension

• Shock absorbers and, if equipped; struts, subframe mounts, if equipped; engine and transmission mounts; kingpins, if equipped; upper and lower control arm bushings, if equipped; guide rod bushings, if equipped; front or rear subframe, if equipped; condition of balljoints, if equipped.

Steering

• Tie rods; center link; steering column shock; steering coupling; steering box; steering lock mechanism; power steering pump and hoses.

Engine

• Compression; exhaust gases; lubrication system and oil leaks; valves and guides; piston rings and cylinder liners, cylinder head(s) and head gaskets (especially if of light alloy).

Transmission (automatic and manual)

• Valve body, clutch packs and pistons; condition of external seals; clutch and pressure plate (manual); clutch hydraulics (manual); synchronizers (manual); bushings in the shift linkage (either).

Driveline

• Universal joint(s); flex discs; driveshaft; driveshaft center support and bearing; rear axle boot(s); differential.

Fuel delivery system

• Fuel hoses; carburetors, if equipped; cold starting devices, fuel injection system; hot starting systems, if equipped; fuel pump; fuel tank; fuel injectors, if equipped; electronic equipment for fuel injection; fuel injection pump.

Ignition System

• Ignition equipment (spark plugs, coils, condensors, spark plug wires) as appropriate; ignition timing; electronic controls for ignition; pre-glow systems on diesels.

Intake and exhaust

• Intake manifold gaskets and seals (esp. vacuum leaks); turbocharger, if equipped; exhaust system; intake ancillaries (air filter, throttle linkage, etc.).

Electrical system

• Battery; alternator or generator; associated belts; wiring harness; lights; electrical accessories; instruments and gauges; power windows and sunroof.

Cooling system

• Hoses and clamps; belts (condition and tension); water pump; thermostat function; radiator; heater core; reserve tank; temperature gauge.

A/C and heating systems

• Blower fan; controls; heater levers; A/C compressor; A/C system; climate control actuators; monovalve, if equipped; A/C condenser; A/C hoses; auxiliary fan, if equipped.

Body, exterior panels and internal chassis

• Evidence or symptoms of rust and corrosion; accident damage; external seals for doors, windshield, etc.; window glass; door hinges, trunk and hood hinges; uniform panel and door gaps; paint; chrome trim and body moldings.

Interior

• Upholstery; cushions and horsehair pads; seat springs; power seat functions; facia (instrument panel); knobs and buttons; interior trim pieces; wood veneer; other materials and trim items; headliner; sun visors; door panels; locks and door handles.